North Coast Recon!

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Since we’ve settled into our new apartment, the kids are in day camp and we have some time before school starts, we decided to find a family-friendly seaside location close to Taipei here in the north of Taiwan. We’re looking for someplace we can survive with the boys in tow without too many disasters – ice cream shop, hotel with pool close to seaside, various amusements and distractions nearby. Knowing full well that the wrong location could result in a disastrous trip for all, we decided to take a few days to get the lay of the land.

Day one took us to  a place called Baishawan. From our apartment in Tien Mu, we took a bus to the MRT (Taipei Metropolitan Rapid Transit) and caught the red line to the end at a place called Tamsui which took about 20 minutes. Then we jumped aboard the 863 bus (thanks to our Easy Cards – charged up with credit at the local 7-Eleven). After about a 30 minute ride, we lunched and beveraged at Baishawan. Recon report: nice, calm little beach area in a circular bay with inflatables for rent, shaded space and minimal surf.

Non-alcoholic cranberry and soda on the left, Taiwan Beer on the right. Guess who ordered what.
Non-alcoholic cranberry and soda on the left, Taiwan Beer on the right. Guess who ordered what.

Then, seized with a mad tourist frenzy or perhaps crazy from the heat, we decided to hike what looked like a short distance from Baishawan to Fuguei Cape which bears a lighthouse and is the northernmost point on the island of Taiwan. On the way we passed through a fresh seafood market with restaurants. Apparently the way it works is you buy the fish, then take it to the restaurant and they cook it for you, which made me wonder what exactly the restaurant charges you for bringing your own menu…But, limited by Becky’s cloying vegetarianism (curse me now Janice) and the fact that we had already eaten, we never found out or took any pictures for that matter.

Finally , after about an hour in the blazing heat and humidity, we arrived at the Lighthouse. It was truly a beautiful place, as you can see by these pics.

Here we are standing sweatily and somewhat unsteadily due to heat and dehydration at the Northernmost tip of Taiwan
Here we are standing sweatily and somewhat unsteadily due to heat and dehydration at the Northernmost tip of Taiwan

 

Barely able to stand due to dehydration and one bottle of beer, I pose near the lighthouse.
Barely able to stand due to dehydration and one bottle of beer, I pose near the lighthouse.

 

Smiling through it all, my beautiful wife poses near the Lighthouse.
Smiling through it all, my beautiful wife poses near the Lighthouse.
The road on the far side of the Lighthouse.
The road on the far side of the Lighthouse.
The volcanic rocks on the far side of the cape. This Northern point of Taiwan was deposited here from a volcanic eruption from the area where we visited the Fumeroles (see earlier post) eleventy billion kajillion years ago.
The volcanic rocks on the far side of the cape. This Northern point of Taiwan was deposited here from a volcanic eruption from the area where we visited the Fumeroles (see earlier post) eleventy billion kajillion years ago.

We staggered back to a bus stop and returned to the train station and came home just in time to pick the boys up from Camp.

The next day -equally hot and humid, we decided to make the same trip and go even further to Jinshan. Once we got off the faithful 863 bus we walked through the town and stood beneath the shade of a temple gate so we could get our bearings on how to reach the beach. A nice lady on a scooter with two young boys riding with her pulled over to ask us in English if we needed directions. She explained that her name was Amanda and she had lived abroad and that she was out running errands with her two nephews. She was extremely helpful and directed us to the beach and recommended we have lunch at a restaurant called 88. We went there and when we asked for the menu, they slid open the door to the cooler and pointed to a variety of fresh fish as if to indicate (since they spoke no English) that this was the menu. We got vegetable fried rice for Becky and I had two fish (complete with heads) cooked in miso broth along with several fresh shrimp. The food was amazing.

The staff & ambience of the 88 Restaurant.
The staff & ambience of the 88 Restaurant.

 

The Menu of the 88 Restaurant. They explained that "This morning, they were swimming in the sea. Then someone catched them and now they were on the menu."
The Menu of the 88 Restaurant. They explained that “This morning, they were swimming in the sea. Then someone catched them and now they were on the menu.”

While we were eating, Amanda appeared and said she would be happy to show us the way to the beaches. When we left the restaurant she was outside and led us to her house down the street. One of her nephews stood next to a scooter and Amanda sat on hers. “Do you know how to drive a scooter, Jim?” she asked. I replied that I did so she threw me a helmet and instructed one of her nephews to go with me and took Becky and her other nephew on hers. This may seem unusual but since arriving in Taiwan I have seen entire families (parents and at least two children, sometimes even the dog too) on traveling via scooter. So off we went.

They showed us a cave carved by the wind and surf where we will soon take our boys to explore.
They showed us a cave carved by the wind and surf where we will soon take our boys to explore.
The Wind Cave as seen from the other side looking out at the sea.
The Wind Cave as seen from the other side looking out at the sea.
Becky with Amanda and her oldest Nephew.
Becky with Amanda and her oldest Nephew.
The first beach.
The first beach.
A rock formation in the sea known as the Twin Candlesticks.
A rock formation in the sea known as the Twin Candlesticks.
The Second Beach.
The second beach.
Somebody had trouble getting her helmet off.
Somebody had trouble getting her helmet off.
I asked the older one what his name was and he said Harry. I asked him what the younger one's name was and he said it was Potter. I think he was pulling my leg, don't you?
I asked the older one what his name was and he said Harry. I asked him what the younger one’s name was and he said it was Potter. I think he was pulling my leg, don’t you?

Finally, Amanda took us to the bus station where we caught a direct coach back to downtown Taipei which took about an hour and 15 minutes.

All in all it was a great two days. We made new friends, saw new stuff and found some great places to take our family. It also illustrates the friendliness and welcoming attitude of the Taiwanese people. I told the story to a friend in my Tai Chi Group and he said the same thing would have happened in mainland China with one difference – at the end of the day, they would have handed us a bill.

Thanks for tuning in for our latest adventures. Lots more to come. And don’t forget that we love and miss you all!

 

–The Klars Afar

 

 

 

 

3 thoughts on “North Coast Recon!”

  1. I only have two things to say: curse you, Jim and, if Becky has all this time to gallivanting around with you, why hasn’t she answered my email????

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  2. I just want to thank you for sharing all those wonderful pictures! It’s pretty nice. I am learning some pretty cool stuff. Had no idea just how pretty it is there. You and the family stay healthy, safe and YOLO….You Only Live Once…..so enjoy every second of it with your family!! You are missed by us all. 🙂

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