All posts by jimbosupremo

Two dogs, two kids and two adults transplanted from Cleveland, Ohio to Taipei, Taiwan.

A Fabulous Trip to Sun “HOON” Lake

On December 27th we welcomed our second visit from the ranks of our friends in America. The Hoon family, Zack & Jayne and their sons Clay & Carter arrived for a week-long adventure. Together we hit the Taipei Zoo, Taipei 101, The Shilin Night Market and Sun Moon Lake (now unofficially renamed Sun HOON Lake). Not only was it great to see our old friends again but Clay, who is currently studying Chinese in College, proved particularly useful as a translator and impromptu tour guide since he could read menus, ask directions and function as a nearly normal member of Taiwanese Society – a skill that still eludes many of the rest of us 外國人 (Weiguoren, the characters for foreigner in Chinese). In the photo below you see the jet-lagged Hoon Family found a little bit of home when they met up with American Marketing Icon Ronald McDonald who happened to be at the Taipei Zoo on a promotional visit.

The Hoons make the acquaintance of an American Marketing Icon who they happened to run into at the Taipei Zoo.
The Hoons make the acquaintance of an American Marketing Icon who they happened to run into at the Taipei Zoo.

Even the animals got excited meeting the Hoons. Some of them even opened their eyes.

Here you can see how excited the Pandas were to see the Hoon Family. This one nearly woke up, he was so thrilled.
Here you can see how excited the Pandas were to see the Hoon Family. This one nearly woke up, he was so thrilled.

Then it was just a quick ride on the Taipei Metro Rail (MRT) to Taipei 101. Taipei 101 dominates the skyline of our fair city and between 2004 and 2010 it was the tallest building in the world. For just $500 NT for adults and $450 NT for children ($15 US & $13.50 US respectively) we took the elevator up to the 89th floor observatory and also gained access to the 91st floor outside deck which is sometimes closed due to high winds. Even though we had been here 7 months at that point, it took visiting friends to get us to the top. We found out Taipei 101 is green, is known as an engineering marvel in a country rife with typhoons and earthquakes and offers a hell of a great view of the city and surrounding green space. Check out these pics…

That night we went to the Shilin Night Market. Sorry but I was either too tired or too drunk to take any pictures. Suffice it to say it is a packed throng of street vendors selling everything from squid on a stick to “Stinky Tofu” – a Taiwanese delicacy I have yet to drink enough to try. The next day we went to Sun “Hoon” Lake. Sun Moon Lake is the largest body of fresh water in Taiwan. Although it’s not much compared to the Great Lakes in the States, it’s still pretty damn big and the surrounding area is gorgeous. There’s a Gondola ride up the mountains, boat rides around the lake, bike paths surrounding the shore and the awesome Wen Wu Temple right on the shore overlooking the tranquil waters.

We rode a Gondola to an Aboriginal Theme Park, celebrated the New Year with old friends on the lakeshore and had an all-around great time at Sun HOON Lake – as it will forever be known henceforth in the Klar family.

One thing you occasionally regret living halfway around the world from people you’ve known most of your life is that you can’t show them the sights, point out the smells and have a laugh or two about this crazy place. It was soooooo nice to share our experience in Taiwan with such great old friends while we got to know their children better and let them get to know ours. We welcome any and all visitors to this “magic rock.” And we hope to see more of you soon.

I am terribly behind on this family blog. Please forgive me but I promise to post more regularly and eventually get up to the present. Don’t forget we love and miss you all. And feel free to post heartfelt or sarcastic comments – the more the better.

–The Klars Afar

Christmas in Taipei (Where Santa Comes 12 Hours Earlier But the Blog Doesn’t Go Up Any Sooner)

Well the Klars afar had a fantastic time during our first Christmas season here in Taipei.

We started the Holiday Season in our usual fashion when the Advent Calendars arrived from Nana & Poppa in the UK. For those of you unfamiliar with the custom, this is a 25-day calendar with a chocolate candy in a compartment behind each of the 25 dates of December leading up and including Christmas Day. This peculiarly British practice allows children to eat chocolate before breakfast for almost a month and also helps to answer 7-year old Bodhi’s daily query, “So how many more days until Christmas?” Providing the subsequent explanation affords a valuable teaching moment and builds strong math skills as we count down the days together. As parents we were able to practice patience and attempt to explain the concept of linear time when he regularly exploded, “Why can’t we just have Christmas today?”

We also enjoyed the Winter Wonderland event at Taipei American School. This was an all-day extravaganza with food, Santa, games, food, snowmen (yes, even here in sub-tropical Taiwan, folks), crafts, food and….did I mention the food.

Next on our agenda was a visit to Wendel’s, a local German Bakery. Each year they hold a fabulous Gingerbread Decorating workshop for kids. Skilled cake decorators assist the children so the parents are allowed to mingle and and drink.

Christmas Eve involved the normal stuff. Kids who don’t want to go to sleep, parents who want to get the presents under the tree so they can hit the sack and dad having a bit too much Christmas Spirit. We almost had the kids in bed when Bodhi suddenly realised that here in Taiwan we live in an apartment on the 6th floor with no chimney. How is Santa going to get into our home and deliver his bounty? Griffin, who at nine going on nineteen thinks he knows everything but won’t dare say he doesn’t believe in Santa as it may jeopardize his annual haul, snorted and chuckled in his wisdom as we explained to Bodhi that Santa will land on our balcony and we will leave the sliding glass door unlocked. This satisfies him enough to get him to go to bed. Finally.

For Santa
This is the triple decker cookie Bodhi decorated at the Winter Wonderland event. Believe it or not, Santa ate it…well most of it anyway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Even though it seemed like it took a million years (Cue Bodhi screaming, “WHY CAN’T IT JUST BE CHRISTMAS TODAY?”), the sun finally rose for two anxious little boys on December 25th. And boy did they make out!

So we all had a magical time during the holidays and we hope you did too. Thanks for reading our blog and don’t ever forget we love and miss you all.

Next post: our trip to Sun Hoon Lake!

–the Klars Afar

In the Footsteps of Headhunters – Hualien and Taroko Gorge

Taiwan celebrates national Taiwan Day each year on October 10th (10/10) and there are always extra days off for the entire island. The trouble with traveling during that time is that the whole population is likely doing it too. Roads are jammed, trains, busses and planes are completely booked and the crowds can be unbearable. So you’re often better off staying at home. Unless, of course, your timing is perfect.

Since Becky and the boys had Monday off school, we decided to hang out around home Friday and Saturday and travel early on Sunday. My theory was that we would be going somewhere at exactly the same time everyone else in Taipei was coming home from somewhere . Turns out I was right. Throughout our drive on Sunday, we saw traffic jams on the opposite side of the road.

We opted for Hualien – roughly halfway down Taiwan’s Rocky East Coast – since many of our new friends here have raved about the beauty of the drive there and it’s close to Taroko Gorge which we’ve wanted to see since we’ve been here.

The 4-hour drive to Hualien was just as dramatic as described. Taiwan’s rocky east coast has fabulous green mountains that go right up to the sea. The road is carved into the side of cliffs and offers breathtaking views of surf crashing on rocks.

The Coastal Highway has stunning views of Taiwan’s east coast. The Coastal Highway has stunning views of Taiwan’s east coast. I admit to stealing this photo since I couldn’t use the camera and drive at the same time.

Once we arrived, we settled into our accommodations and hit the shoreline. Hualien has a rocky beach with many beautiful views of the ocean and what was on that day a pounding surf. This was when Bodhi discovered that he is actually the god of the sea able to summon large waves at his leisure, as this video shows.

We captured and observed a tiny crab, walked with the dogs on the boulder-strewn shoreline and enjoyed the fresh air and crashing waves for a few hours before heading out to dinner.

Later that night we went out for dinner and explored the city at night. Hualien has a very laid-back vibe, almost hippyish compared to Taipei. The Klars Afar approved.

A frozen watermelon juice drink from a street vendor put Bodhi in a stupor.
A frozen watermelon juice drink from a street vendor put Bodhi in a stupor.

 

Becky and the boys pose with local rockers in Hualien.
Becky and the boys pose with local rockers in Hualien.

The next day we packed a lunch, stopped for breakfast and headed out early to Taroko Gorge. Taroko Gorge is one of the most stunningly beautiful parts of Taiwan and certainly has an interesting history. It is named after the Truku People, one of the many tribes of aborigines present in Taiwan when the Chinese arrived over 400 years ago. For hundreds of years the aborigines lived in relative harmony with the Chinese who tended to live in cities on the coast while the aborigines were given free reign over much of the mountains.

According to Wikipedia, there were good reasons why most of the Chinese-descended residents of Taiwan tried their best to stay the hell away from the Truku. They were renowned for their skill in headhunting, which was a symbol of bravery and valor. A headhunting raid would often strike at workers in the fields, or employ the ruse of setting a dwelling alight and then decapitating the inhabitants as they fled the burning structure. Once the victims had been dispatched the heads were taken then boiled and left to dry, often hanging from trees or shelves constructed for the purpose. A party returning with a head was cause for celebration, as it would bring good luck. Some tribes took prisoners and inscribed prayers or messages to their dead on arrows, then shot their prisoner with the hope their prayers would be carried to the dead.  These guys (and gals) were scary.

Only the occupying Japanese were able to battle the Truku people into submission and force them to abandon their decapitating ways. And (sigh) head-hunting was completely abolished by the 1930s. Otherwise we might have stayed home. Taroko Gorge is incredibly beautiful, just check out this gallery for proof.

The road through Taroko Gorge starts in Hualien and goes all the way across the island to the West Coast. This was no easy task and many workers died during its construction. In their honor, The Shrine of the Eternal Spring was created and we stopped there to enjoy its beauty.

 

After visiting the shrine, we motored home, enjoying once again the beautiful views along the way. Sorry for the long time between posts. Thanks again for reading and please post comments and questions. That’s it for now, please remember we love and miss you all…

–The Klars Afar

River Tracing in WuLai

River Tracing (or River Trekking as it is called in Wikipedia), is a relatively new and very popular sport in Japan and Taiwan. In the simplest terms, it involves putting on shoes and clothes you don’t mind getting wet and wading, walking, swimming and sometimes hiking up a clean refreshing fresh water river in the midst of the Summer heat.

We went with Monique Lee, her children and some friends of hers and I must admit, it was a hell of a good time.  The place she took us is called WuLai, a beautiful, remote area South of Taipei. Until then most of our adventures had been to the North so we were anxious to check it out.

Where is WuLai?
As you can see from this map, WuLai is substantially south of Taipei City.

As an escape from the high temperatures of Taiwan, this is similar to playing in the sprinkler on a hot day, except it involves the entire family and lots of animals, amphibians and fish…

Click on the images below to view a Wet & Wild Gallery.

The kids took plenty of chances in what they thought were some pretty risky rapids as you can see from this video.

Even the Butterflies were frisky that day. Check it out. 

Well a fun (and wet) day was had by all and we look forward to sharing many adventures with Monique and her clan so stay tuned.

And remember that we love and miss you all…

–The Klars Afar

Bow Wows On the Beach

Sundays are set aside as “Family Day” for the Klars afar in Taiwan. And now that we have a vehicle large enough for kids, snacks, dogs and adults, we hit the beach or the mountains (both great opportunities to beat the heat) at least once a week. We had noticed a few weeks ago that dogs seemed welcome on the beach here so we decided to take old Jake & Scout (now clocking in at 14 & 13 years of age respectively) along for the ride and a swim. Now they’re not as frisky as they used to be but you can see from the headline photo that they still manage to learn a new trick occasionally.

This was actually a few weeks ago and we made some new friends – which we accomplish on almost every trip. Monique Lee and her three kids – Molly, Samuel & Uma. They made us feel right at home and even let us borrow their inflatable raft so we could play “Rescue” with Jake & Scout. (Click an image below to launch the gallery of larger images).

It was a great afternoon and reassuring that we didn’t have to leave Jake & Scout at home alone while we had fun. Plus they helped us meet Monique and the gang with whom we have since had more adventures…but that’s another post. Hope you enjoyed this one.

Remember to post any comments and questions and that we love and miss you all.

–The Klars Afar

Willy Nilly Hillbillies Hit the “Stinky Mountains”

Born in Kentucky, when I first moved to Ohio for College in 1977 at the age of 18, my accent earned me the nicknames, “Briar-Hopper” & “Hillbilly”. Having since lived in the UK, Japan and now Taiwan, I seem to move around a lot – Willy Nilly if you like. Now if this all seems like a manufactured set-up for that headline, you’re probably right. But now that we’re really rolling here in the Magic Rock (see earlier post), we figured it was time to pack up the minivan and head for the mountains.

On of the many benefits of our apartment’s location is that the immense, bustling metropolis of Taipei lies before us. While the stunning natural beauty of Yangmingshan National Park lies just behind us. So we did some homework to find a family-friendly hiking trail, loaded the vehicle with beverages, snacks and canines and chose the Lenshuikeng area. According to the Yangmingshan National Park website, “The Lengshuikeng region is a low-lying depression which was created when the lava from Mt. Qixing and Mt. Qigu formed a barrage. Water then accumulated, turning the area into a lake, which eventually leaked out and dried up to expose the lake bottom and form today’s landscape. The water temperature of the hot springs in this area only reaches 40°C (104°F), far below that of other springs in other areas, hence its name Lengshuikeng, which means “cold water pit”.” 

All this sounded great as we described it to Griffin and Bodhi once they had clicked their seat belts and we were on the road. Griffin asked where it was exactly and when we told him it was in the mountains, he moaned, “Not the mountains! I hate the mountains! It STINKS up there.” Of course the stink he was referring to is the sulfur smell of the fumaroles and hot springs since we sit atop an active volcanic area. So we rolled down the windows and made it into a game.  Whenever we drove through a cloud, we guessed – was it a raincloud or a stink cloud? More often than not, it was a stink cloud but the kids enjoyed it.

We decided on a hike to the Juansi Waterfall that started on a suspension bridge and ended at a waterfall – 1.2 kilometers, 2.4 there and back. First we needed water for the dogs.

It's hot here in Taiwan this time of year but not quite as hot in the mountains. Even though they've recently had haircuts to help them keep cool, we always make sure our pets get plenty of water.
It’s hot here in Taiwan this time of year but not quite as hot in the mountains. Even though they’ve recently had haircuts to help them keep cool, we always make sure our pets get plenty of water.

And then we were off and hiking. Of course Griffin and Bo complained a fair bit. Their legs hurt, they were tired, they got on each others’ nerves, etc. but it appears they occasionally enjoyed the  walk and Mommy & Daddy were not backing down.

The trail started in the midst of the tall grass that covers many of the mountains here. I've been told it's one of the plants that has adapted to the sulfurous soil and air.
The trail started in the midst of the tall grass that covers many of the mountains here. I’ve been told it’s one of the plants that has adapted to the sulfurous soil and air.

The trail was paved and wound through beautiful bamboo thickets and thick vegetation.

Fabulous, towering bamboo and various jungle vegetation greeted us along the route.
Fabulous, towering bamboo and various jungle vegetation greeted us along the route.

After much trudging, we made it to the waterfall which was beautiful and the perfect relaxing spot for a snack.

This is the Juansi Waterfall. A beautiful spot we highly recommend.
This is the Juansi Waterfall. A beautiful spot we highly recommend.

And what post would be complete without video?

But as with any other trail into the mountains in Taiwan, there were other, slightly smaller waterfalls everywhere.

Throughout the mountains of Taiwan, small streams and waterfall abound.
Throughout the mountains of Taiwan, small streams and waterfall abound.
Another small waterfall.
Another small waterfall.
While we rested at the Juansi Waterfall, we had snacks and Jake decided he needed some food too so he tried his best to beg for chips (crisps for our UK readers).
While we rested at the Juansi Waterfall, we had snacks and Jake decided he needed some food too so he tried his best to beg for chips (crisps for our UK readers).
Griffin had lent Bo one of his "cool hats" for the hike but they had a minor falling out at the waterfall so he decided two hats are better than one.
Griffin had lent Bo one of his “cool hats” for the hike but they had a minor falling out at the waterfall so he decided two hats are better than one.

Hiking back we discovered the loudest insects on earth engaged in their late afternoon song. We are now convinced these little buggers are what chased the Japanese from Taiwan. Turn up your speakers (but not too much) or put on your headphones to experience their full ear-splitting glory in this video.

After further trudging, we made it back to the suspension bridge for a family photo next to the “Keep off the Grass” sign.

Beautiful family finishes the hike in harmony.
Beautiful family finishes the hike in harmony.

More adventures to come. Thanks for reading our posts and don’t forget to click the embedded images for larger views and leave plenty of comments.

We love and miss you all…

–The Klars Afar

 

How We Now Roll on the Magic Rock

It all started when I decided I needed a new meditation altar. We had been introduced to Howard Brewer and Faye Angevine, both long-time residents of Taiwan (more than 30 years) and owners of BaiWin Antiques, among other business concerns. They are extremely friendly, welcoming and helpful – especially so towards new expat arrivals. Within minutes of making their acquaintance, they were sharing wine while dispensing stories and lots of much-needed advice. I will never forget as I raised my glass of Argentinian Cabernet for a toast and Howard said, with a twinkle in his eye, “Welcome to the Magic Rock.” As time goes on, I become more certain that this volcanic island is like nowhere on earth.

As you can see from their website, BaiWin Antiques is stuffed to the rafters with fine art and beautiful furniture, all of which are authentic despite the onslought of cheap knock-offs and reproductions flooding the market from mainland China (according to Faye). So while we were enjoying their wine  and hospitality, I saw a piece that would be perfect as my new meditation altar here on the Magic Rock.

A beautiful piece made of two different types of wood fashioned in the 1800s. (click on image for enlarged view)
A beautiful piece made of two different types of wood fashioned in the 1800s. (click on image for enlarged view)

I immediately snapped a photo on my handy iPhone and told Faye I wanted her to hold it for me while I secured buy-in from Becky as she was not present and is in charge of money (the only reason we have any), furniture and home decoration – as her taste is infinitely more subtle and superior to mine. Becky loved it as much as I did so I let Faye know she had made a sale (hopefully the profit covered the cost of the wine I drank).

We stopped by their shop to pay for the altar and arrange delivery when Faye happened to ask, “Is there anything else we can  help you with to get you more settled here in Taipei?” I mentioned that we were thinking of getting a used car as renting one had made us realize how being more mobile would make it much more convenient to go places as a family on weekends and holidays (see previous post) and Faye said, “I know a guy, let me make a call.” Fluent in Mandarin, Faye jabbered on her phone for a few minutes then hung up. “My friend has some options available, do you have some time now to take a look?”

She then drove us to a nearby Chrysler/Jeep dealership and on the way told us that Mr. Jien who ran the place was her friend, had sold her the two company vehicles for their shop, also provided service and would certainly give us a good deal. Well Mr. Jien had a 2002 Chrysler Voyager that only had 60,000 miles on it and was willing to part with it for about 20% above what we had agreed on as a budget. We held firm on our amount so Faye asked Mr. Jien if he would sell it for less. He asked if we were good friends of hers and she said yes. So he sold us the Chrysler for exactly what we wanted to spend. Within two days the minivan was ours.

Our landlord, Mr. Lin, offered us an available outdoor parking space for just a $100/month increase in rent and then made the space larger (which involved removing a planter and pouring no small amount of concrete) when he saw that it was a van.

The vehicle is in great shape. It has a sonar device in the rear bumper that detects objects behind when in reverse and beeps like a lunatic when you get too close. While it doesn’t have bluetooth for our iPhones, it does have a mysterious technology input in the center console we have yet to understand.

We can't figure out what that shown in the red box is or how to work it...any suggestions? (click on image to enlarge)
We can’t figure out what that shown in the red box is or how to work it…any suggestions? (click on image to enlarge)

With a removable third row seat and rooftop luggage rack, this will indeed be the perfect vehicle for touring when family (this means you, Barnetts) comes to visit. Room for two kids, two dogs, four adults and luggage on the roof means we can certainly roll on the Magic Rock.

Sorry for the lack of posts lately. Hope you enjoyed this one and remember that we love and miss you all…

–The Klars Afar

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Klars Afar Rented a Car

We (I) finally got up the nerve a few weeks ago to drive in Taiwan. Our friends the Dethy family – Mike and Andrea and Kye and Caden – offered to take us on a tour of their favorite spots on the north coast of Taiwan. Of course we couldn’t fit all eight of us in their car, so they suggested we rent a car from a friend of Andrea’s brother. Andrea is a native of Taipei, in  particular of our neighborhood of Tian Mu.  Andrea’s brother’s friend is called Shao Pong, which has something to do with his rotund stature (translated impolitely as “little fatty”). He runs his own private auto rental biz and while he usually has mini-vans and jeeps, the only car left to rent from him on this particular day was a BMW M3 convertible.

Bodhi & Griff try to look cool while Dad tries not to look old, bald and fat.
Bodhi & Griff try to look cool while Dad tries not to look old, bald and fat.
Bodhi and Griffin pose in the back of the Beamer. "We like this car, Daddy. We should buy ti."
Bodhi and Griffin pose in the back of the Beamer. “We like this car, Daddy. We should buy it.”

I was a little nervous as I had never driven in this country before. The roads are narrow, the taxi drivers are aggressive and the scooters swarm around you like angry hornets. But what the heck, how often do you get to drive an M3 convertible down the coastline in Taiwan.

We followed the Dethy Family in their larger sedan and made several stops along the way – a beach where Bodhi proved you can have fun in three inches of water when the tide is going out. We were precluded from swimming as there was a typhoon approaching  and the Taiwanese people are very safety conscious.

The wind was picking up and the clouds were swirling on Taiwan's North Coast.
The wind was picking up and the clouds were swirling on Taiwan’s North Coast.
TP Motor Club
The TP Motor Club on Taiwan’s North Coast.

We stopped at self-proclaimed “Biker Bar” for lunch. The only bikers there were mannequins but the food was pretty good and the caramel-coffee smoothie was outstanding!

Bodhi posed with the Biker Statues. Surprisingly, he never once mentioned Becky's father, Chris.
Bodhi posed with the Biker Statues. Surprisingly, he never once mentioned Becky’s father, Chris.
Over the years I have grown accustomed to leather-clad bikers hitting on my wife. This one was extra polite.
Over the years I have grown accustomed to leather-clad bikers hitting on my wife. This one was extra polite.

Further on we stopped at a famous local landmark – the Shimen Arch. This turned into another great opportunity to educate our kids on the effects of wind, water and erosion. If only they paid any attention to their parents…

This natural arch was carved over time as the inward and outward movement of the tides eroded the bottom of this land mass, leaving behind an archway when the land was subsequently pushed upward.
This natural arch was carved over time as the inward and outward movement of the tides eroded the bottom of this land mass, leaving behind an archway when the land was subsequently pushed upward.
This view is from the ocean-side of the rock formation.
This view is from the ocean-side of the rock formation.

Griffin took the chance to practice his Parcour skills.

Griffin has not yet been to the emergency room in this country and he seems determined to remedy that situation as soon as possible.
Griffin has not yet been to the emergency room in this country and he seems determined to remedy that situation as soon as possible.
Family on the Rocks: Becky, Griff & Bo take a picturesque opportunity to pose on a bridge to nowhere.
Family on the Rocks: Becky, Griff & Bo take a picturesque opportunity to pose on a bridge to nowhere.

Once we turned back towards Taipei – passing over and through the mountainous Yangmingshan National Park – the most western bands of the Typhoon were hitting the island so besides being pitch black, it was also pouring with rain and howling with wind which made for an interesting descent back into our area.

When we got down from the mountains, we celebrated with our first family visit to an indoor hot spring spa at the SweetMe Hotspring Resort. They brought us refreshing adult beverages while we took turns soaking in naturally sulfurous water from the extinct volcano and freezing cold water from the mountain streams.

The three Klar boys soak up the healing powers of the sulfurous water heated by volcanic activity deep below the surface ( we hope).
The three Klar boys soak up the healing powers of the sulfurous water heated by volcanic activity deep below the surface ( we hope).

All in all it was a great day, thanks to our friends the Dethys who have since departed for employment in Saudi Arabia. They were so helpful in our settling in and we miss them immensely.

Mike & Andrea Dethy with their beautiful sons pose with Bodhi & Griffin.
Mike and Andrea Dethy with their beautiful sons Kai & Caden pose with Bodhi and Griffin. Everybody clearly has that after-hotsprings glow about them.

Hope you’re all enjoying our adventures, I know we are. We liked the independence and flexibility of driving around so much we decided to purchase our own vehicle – stay tuned for details in a subsequent post.

Don’t forget we love and miss you all…

–The Klars Afar